Attush Ainu Robe

Ainu, Hokkaido, Japan
Edo period
Likely first half of the 19th Century
Elm fiber, cotton; possibly mud dyed cotton
appliqué, embroidery, trade cloth with stream motif
50 x 48 in (127 x 122 cm)
Price on Request

This early attush アットゥシ possesses an exceptionally complex surface decoration and interesting later alterations. The yarn has been woven in a plain weave accented by white and light-blue cotton in elaborate vertical stripes with appliqué of possibly mud dyed, plain-weave cotton as well as embroidery. The embroidery, which features both running and chain stitches, was done in cotton thread. Classical Ainu appliqué patterns appear over the field of the garment serving an apotropaic function. Contributing to the aesthetic impact of the robe, the sleeves were extended, and a hole was repaired on the front left side, using cotton trade cloth with a pleasing curvilinear motif that can be interpreted as a moving stream.